Haute Route Days 1 and 2

May 01, 2011

Day 1 – Argentiere to Trient Hut

Looking down to Argentiere Glacier and Col du Chardonnet
Looking down to Argentiere Glacier and Col du Chardonnet

Managed to actually get the first lift from Argentiere due to taxi and good organisation. We stayed at the Hotel L’Arve in Chamonix, which I recommend.

Rolf and Roar were a bit behind us in the lift line so we managed to have a cheeky expresso at the grands montets cafe.

We got going an headed down towards the Argentiere glacier via the Rognons glacier. Some crevasses but excellent visibility. Long descent to get the skiing legs back. I had done minimal downhill skiing this season, mainly snowboarding and xc skiing.

Rognons descent
Rognons descent

We switched to skins on the Argentiere glacier and onto the Col du Chardonnet. On the way up we used ski crampons. I used mine for the first time and learned that skiing downhill on them is not a good idea when there is rocks around. I ripped off the dynafit plastic mount. Bindings were otherwise fine.

Chardonnet Ascent
Chardonnet Ascent
Looking back to Rognons Glacier
Looking back to Rognons Glacier

It flattened off then we got to the abseil over the other side. We had 2×30m ropes with us and rope-round-the-back side slipped down the col. This was fine and exciting, potentially later in the season we would require more rope to do this. Also we relied on the next party to unclip rope for us.

Chardonnet
Chardonnet
Skinning up chardonnet from Argentiere Glacier
Skinning up chardonnet from Argentiere Glacier
Chardonnet crew
Chardonnet crew

Johan waited for rope release and skied down the last section with the rope, as he arrived at the group he had a very impressive wipeout.

Col du Chardonnet
Col du Chardonnet

Next a traverse ski and then up over the Col de Saleina; Skis on the pack for this one and the thin air took a bit of getting used to; tough times.

Fenetre de Saleina
Fenetre de Saleina

On the other side of the col we saw both the Trient hut and some sexy lines above the Col du Tour. I was persuaded by Johan and Erik to hit this, so off we went for an extra tour.

Eivind
Eivind

Unfortunately the turns were not as nice as they looked; the snow was breakable crust! So we had to do Italian style turns to make it down.

Food at the Trient was excellent, portions slightly small however and the guardian crew not the most friendly. The main guardian was nice though.

Norsk Crew
Norsk Crew

Important to drink a lot of water at altitude and to rehydrate in the huts. Water, Coke and Beer all have their benefits!

Heineken and Girl
Heineken and Girl

6hrs 40min

Couloir Copt
Couloir Copt (Xavier de la Rue hit this.)
Saleina Dusk
Saleina Dusk

Day 2 – Trient Hut to Mont Fort Hut

Up quite early, we were the second last group to leave the hut. Down the Trient glacier where there were quite a few holes.

Haute Route 2011
Col des Escandies

Over the col des escandies, with skis on back and ice axe, no crampons.

Smiling Col des Escandies
Smiling Col des Escandies
Peein Col des Escandies
Peein Col des Escandies

Nice skiing down the Val D Arpette into Champex ski resort. Saw the point d’orney couloir over the backside of the Trient hut which we should really have hit as the conditions were good for it.

Val d Arpette
Val d Arpette
Val D Arpette
Val D Arpette

As we arrived at the ski resort we were lucky enough to arrive around 10:10am when there was a bus at 10:25am which took us to Osieres. From here we got a train to Le Chable via Sembrancher. From Le Chable you can get a cable car to Verbier. Maybe a taxi would be faster but not sure how much it would cost.

Val D Arpette
Val D Arpette

The boys carried on up to the Les Attelas restaurant for some tasty food. I went to Mountain Air in Verbier and got my binding spacer replaced by a friendly dude for a reasonable price.

Chilled out at Attelas restaurant and hoovered up leftovers, then onto Mont Fort hut for more beers, wine and chilling out.

A funny moment was witnessing a group of yah’s skiing down from the Mont Fort hut half cut in the pitch dark without headtorches at 11pm. Hope they made it safely back without getting buggered!

2 hrs 05min skiing!